Katazome Workshop Planning

I will be teaching a 3-day katazome class from June 26-28 at the Grand Marais Art Colony (GMAC) in Grand Marais, Minnesota. The course is suitable for beginners. I’ve taught katazome techniques on fabric at GMAC twice in the past (2012 & 2019). 

In this class, we’ll be making nature-inspired katazome samples on both cloth and paper. I will test some ideas and approaches as I plan the details of the workshop, sharing my process here on the blog.

Mock-up of concertina flower book
Mock-up of concertina flower book

First, I plan to make a small concertina book based on the mock-up shown here. I will test several different types of paper to see what works best for this application. If all goes well, I will have a nice example to show students . Then, I hope to be able to create an “open edition” of the book, i.e., I can create copies whenever I want, trying out different color palettes, for example.

What led to this idea?

As you can see from my recent work, I love drawing and sketching flowers. I am not yet done with this theme! Two recent learning experiences have led to the idea of creating a katazome book.

Concertina books by Kit Eastman. Woodcut prints on Nishinouchi paper, glued together and assembled
Concertina books by Kit Eastman

In 2021 I took a terrific workshop at Grand Marais Art Colony with Karen Kunc (see Constellation Studios in Lincoln, Nebraska) called From Block to Book. We created reduction woodcut prints and made a concertina book from our prints. We made enough prints to create an edition of 7 books, which I completed at home and gave as holiday gifts that year.  My chosen theme was flowers, and here are my completed books.

Then, just this January I participated in a workshop on the Domestika platform taught by Spanish Illustrator/Artist Jesus Cisneros called Artist Notebooks: Explore Illustration Techniques. It was a wonderful course to stimulate the imagination during this cold, dark, and monochrome season. Cisneros teaches how to create colored paper by rubbing a very thin layer of oil pigment onto the surface with the corner of a paper towel or tissue. Multiple colors can be blended on the same piece, if desired.

Example 1: Oil-rubbed paper cutting, glued to sketchbook
Example 1: Oil-rubbed paper cutting, glued to sketchbook
Example 2: Oil-rubbed paper cutting, glued to sketchbook
Example 2: Oil-rubbed paper cutting, glued to sketchbook,
with colored pencil added (pink)

Then, using the theme of “garden and forest,” we were encouraged to create a series of symmetrically folded and cut plant and/or insect forms using the paper colored this way. The two examples of this shown here are from my sketchbook. 

This particular technique – rubbing pigment on the paper – is similar to the way that pigments are applied to fabric in katazome. But rather than using oil as the medium, soybean juice is used along with a dry brush. Similar effects such as smooth blending and graduation of color can be achieved. This is one of the qualities of katazome that I particularly enjoy. In addition, with the folded and cut paper designs, there is a play of positive and negative space – “notan” – that is also an important part of designing stencils for katazome.

Please watch this space to see how this project (and workshop plan) progresses! For a full description of the workshop I will be teaching, Click Here.

The Colors

Imagining a “garden at dusk” led me to paint several layers of dusky colors in a very light value on the entire surface of the cloth, using soy milk and natural pigments. I would never have used the vintage white damask formal linen tablecloth for dining purposes. My cloth is long enough for two instances of the stencil, which was created from a full sheet of stencil paper. The finished image will be approximately 16” x 30.” Placing my stencil on the cloth before pasting allows me to see where the background colors fall within the stencil design. Before pasting the design (rice paste through the stencil), the stencil and the bamboo stretching sticks–“shinshi,”–soak in water.

Sketches to stencils

I usually start designing a stencil by doing some sketches of my idea. In this piece, I want to combine some pasted background imagery including a moon and some branch and leaf-like forms over the leaf impressions made by the eco-print (see my previous post) Then I’ll add pigments in subtle shades of blue and green, let the piece cure a few days and then rinse out the paste. Over this layer I will paste a single stencil of branches and blackbirds. Here are my initial sketches on newsprint for the final stencil.

dogwood

Next, I work out a cartoon from my sketches, combining the imagery from the sketches. (I probably have no business making a stencil with this much open area (that is, area to be cut away), but I’m curious and committed to see how my idea works out – or not, as the case may be!) I make design adjustments both after tracing the stencil and while I am cutting it. This one will need lots of bridges to give it stability because of all the open areas. The moon is missing because it will be pasted from a separate Yupo stencil.

A light coat of spray adhesive adheres the cartoon to my stencil paper, which has been cut to allow an ample margin on all sides. My image is larger than my stencil paper so will be spread across two pieces of shibugami.

This week I am pasting and dyeing the under-layers, and hope to share a bit of that work later this week.